Tri-coloured Parrotfinch

Includes Species Profile
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dano_68
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Posts: 262
Joined: 20 Jul 2010, 22:29
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Latin Name:
Erythrura tricolor

Other Names:
Tanimbar Parrot Finch, Forbes Parrot Finch

Origin: Timor, Tanimbar Is., Wetar Is., Babar Is.Damar Is. and Romang Is. (Indonesia)

Mutations: Yellow, Latino – not well established in Australia

Description:
Adult
Length: Approx. 100 mm (a Zebra Finch is approximately 100 mm)
Colour: Refer photo/s
Weight: Approx. 8 - 9 gms
Erythrura_tricolor_pair.jpg
Erythrura_tricolor_cockbird.jpg
Juveniles: dull green back, grey front. As with all Parrot finches they still have the nodules on the side of their mouths after fledging.
Erythrura_tricolor_juv.jpg
Sexing:
Dimorphic: Males and females are completely different in appearance. The cockbird has a brilliant cobalt front and deep indigo face with a bright green back and red rump. A cockbird in full sun is literally a “WOW” moment! I have noticed a difference in the shade of cockbirds. Some are very dark with an almost black face and darker blue chest, while others are a lighter version. This is probably due to a very limited gene pool for this species.

The hen is a much more subdued colouration but still striking in her subtle pastel version of the cock’s pattern. Her front is a more light to sky blue on the edges. Her green back and red rump are much duller than the cockbird. Hens can be soft, particularly in cold weather. Therefore 80% of the price of a pair is for the hen. There seems to be a shortage of hens and for some reason unknown right now there is more clutches with a majority of cockbirds coming out.

Housing:
They like tall grasses, shrubs and bamboo in their aviary. They also enjoy growing shrubs and trees and will spend hours climbing around inside them. In Europe they are success fully bred in cabinets. Being a small finch (smallest of all parrot finches) they do not require large flights. That said, they are bullet fast fliers and love to fly from one end of the aviary to the other repeatedly.

Mix:
Most breeders will tell you to only keep 1 pair per aviary and never mix them with other Parrot Finches as they will hybridise. Ok, in my case I have successfully kept 3 pair in the one mixed aviary with Red Faced Parrot Finches and Gouldians. I have 1 Tri-colour male that takes exception to the Gouldians when he is breeding and will chase the Gouldians very aggressively. Everything else he leaves alone. On the other hand, the RFPF does the same to him when it is breeding. So yes, they can be aggressive when nesting however I believe this is more to do with it can get away with it so he does. Basically from very early on the other birds stood up to his bullying so now he ignores them. It is only the Gouldians – who never fight back that he picks on – and I really do mean he picks on them! As for hybridisation, mine never even look at the other species. Perhaps if there was a spare cockbird in the aviary it may be different. I would be reluctant to mix them with Blue Faced Parrot Finches. Otherwise, during normal times they are a very peaceful and docile species that in true PF style just stick to themselves and ignore everyone else!

Never Mix with:
Other members of the Erythrura family as they will hybridise – unless you have bonded pairs all round! According to Gary McCrae of WA, never mix them with Dybowski’s Twinspots as the Dybowski’s will kill them. Nice!

Feeding:
a good quality finch mix, seeding grasses, some fruits, green food and particularly half ripe seeds. Minimal live food required at breeding time. Sprouted seed and fresh sweet corn is enjoyed as well as Lebanese cucumber. Tri Colours love to climb live growing grasses, shrubs and trees and seem to eat a lot more seeds off the plants than dry seed in the dishes.

Again in true PF fashion they love to bath, so it is best to have an automatic watering system as the water may need to be replenished and cleaned up to 3 times a day.

Basic Breeding Info:
Generally will breed all year round if conditions are suitable however September to early March is preferable. Tri’s will usually use a wooden nest box. Either a half opened or even a Gouldian type are also accepted. The cock bird does most of the building and will see how many feathers it can stuff in before the sides split! The nest inside is packed tight and they usually use November Grass with feathers lining the inside. Coconut fibre is on offer but they rarely if ever use it.

Like most Parrot finches there is little in the way of courtship displays. It really is straight down to business. The cock will start to chase the hen incessantly to the point you may get concerned that the she will keel over from exhaustion! But it is all part of the master plan. Get the hen in tip top shape for breeding, and yes, when she is successfully worn out – have your way with her. I know, not as romantic as a Cordon’s serenade, but at least it is not as violent as the Blue Face PF! During the chasing they can get right up the nose of other birds they crash into or annoy. So keep on eye out for any altercations. Generally they are too quick and get away with it.

Finally heat. Tri Coloureds come from a hot and humid climate so they respond well to hot and humid weather. They do not like cold at all. In fact my birds fluff up when it drops below 20C during the day. On nasty wet and cold days they will sit inside an unused nest box all day just to stay warm! I would defiantly not recommend them for outside aviaries in the Southern States of Australia.

I would recommend at least 2 years of successful keeping and breeding of similar species like Red or Blue Faced Parrot finches before you attempt Tri Coloureds.

Average Clutch Size: 3 to 6 white eggs
Clutches per year: 3. I remove the cock birds after 3 clutches to give the hens a rest for 2-3 months over winter.
Incubation Period: 13 - 14 days
Leave nest: 18 - 21 days. Chicks don’t generally return to the nest after they fledge.
Independent: 3-4 weeks.
Parenting: They are generally good parents. Pair bonding is strong. I have had parents start a new nest while still feeding young ones on the perch. They usually try and refurbish an existing nest.
Nest inspection: Moderate nest inspection is generally tolerated.
Adult plumage: 4- 6 months
Sexually mature: 6 months however best breeding results are between 1st - 5th years

Health Issues:
prone to obesity. Average life span in captivity is 6-8 years. Hens do not do well in cold climates.

Breeder Rating:
Experienced Breeders

Approximate cost per pair in Australia:

Queensland: $100
New South Wales: $140
Victoria: $200
Tasmania: UNKNOWN
South Australia: $200
Western Australia: $100
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