Breeding splits
- djb78
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I breed normal gouldians but recently I have been given 5 split yellow back gouldians 3 males and 2 hens all red faced, 3 white chested and 2 purple. If I was to breed two pair how many will be yellow back and will all young be split yellow. A mate of mine is going to give me a split blue hen to breed with my spare split yellow cock, she will be a RF pc. What will the young be split Yellow or blue or a normal. Just wanting to know as have never kept mutations in gouldians and was wondering what are the chances of getting a yellow or a blue from these breedings.
Danny
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djb78 wrote:I breed normal gouldians but recently I have been given 5 split yellow back gouldians 3 males and 2 hens all red faced, 3 white chested and 2 purple. If I was to breed two pair how many will be yellow back and will all young be split yellow. A mate of mine is going to give me a split blue hen to breed with my spare split yellow cock, she will be a RF pc. What will the young be split Yellow or blue or a normal. Just wanting to know as have never kept mutations in gouldians and was wondering what are the chances of getting a yellow or a blue from these breedings.
Split yellow gouldians? are they split for aussie yellow?
a green back cant be split for euro yellow to my knowledge unless your mate has aussie yellows, which the normal gouldian will show a white dot on the back of the head or another white marking around the face if it is split for aussie yellow. euro yellow can not be carried by a normal greenback.
hopefully some other members can help out with what you might expect to get.
a split blue to a normal or a yellow etc will not give you any blue birds, maybe a small % of splits.
Jarryd


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Danny, Misso is right - a bird cannot be split for European Yellow (Yellow back), if they are split yellow they are split for Aussie yellow. yes, I know that bit's confusing.
My advice - never pair splits with normals. In theory the young 50% will be split and 50% will be pure normal but you have no way of knowing which is which visually, it will take years of breeding. Split plus split will result in 25% pure normals, 50% splits and 25% mutation birds - which means again 75% of birds you have no way of knowing which is which. The ideal is split with mutation, that way all young will be either mutation or split. Sometimes the Aussie yellow split bird will show white in the breast but not always, and of course if it's a white breasted bird then you still can't tell.
Purple breast plus white breast will result in 100% purple breast split for white (unless the bird is unknowingly split for white in which case you are back to 50% purple and 50% white). Breast colour is independent of back colour and head colour.
Offspring that are possible splits must be sold as that so the buyer is aware to beware if they are after pure normals or don't want that particular trait in their flock.
My advice - never pair splits with normals. In theory the young 50% will be split and 50% will be pure normal but you have no way of knowing which is which visually, it will take years of breeding. Split plus split will result in 25% pure normals, 50% splits and 25% mutation birds - which means again 75% of birds you have no way of knowing which is which. The ideal is split with mutation, that way all young will be either mutation or split. Sometimes the Aussie yellow split bird will show white in the breast but not always, and of course if it's a white breasted bird then you still can't tell.
Purple breast plus white breast will result in 100% purple breast split for white (unless the bird is unknowingly split for white in which case you are back to 50% purple and 50% white). Breast colour is independent of back colour and head colour.
Offspring that are possible splits must be sold as that so the buyer is aware to beware if they are after pure normals or don't want that particular trait in their flock.
- Ripley
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My observation is...
What a graet opportunity to learn about genetics!
I'm in the process to establising my initial flock of gouldians & I know that I have researched & become befuddled with all the mutations.
My thought is that you are in a good position with your variety of birds & I envy somewhat your dilemma.
But.....
Yes, I agree, if you breed a split to a normal gouldian; you won't get any colour of the mutation , until you breed a split to split; but then you will get a 25% the colour mutaions, 50% split then 25% normal.(I could be wrong).......Therefore it is impossible to determine (with the normal looking bird) which is split to the mutation & what is normal...but all normals bred to a split..all young will be split......
I know this really hasn't helped, but....
Cheers
Ripley
What a graet opportunity to learn about genetics!
I'm in the process to establising my initial flock of gouldians & I know that I have researched & become befuddled with all the mutations.
My thought is that you are in a good position with your variety of birds & I envy somewhat your dilemma.
But.....
Yes, I agree, if you breed a split to a normal gouldian; you won't get any colour of the mutation , until you breed a split to split; but then you will get a 25% the colour mutaions, 50% split then 25% normal.(I could be wrong).......Therefore it is impossible to determine (with the normal looking bird) which is split to the mutation & what is normal...but all normals bred to a split..all young will be split......
I know this really hasn't helped, but....
Cheers
Ripley
- finchbreeder
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but all normals bred to a split..all young will be split......
No, no, no.
All normals bred to a mutation assuming it is a recessive mutation will be split. Why do you think I am going nuts trying to figure out yellows? Because there are more than 1 type, and the pictorial genetic sites are the best way of figuring it out, cause you can see what SF and DF cocks look like.
LML
No, no, no.
All normals bred to a mutation assuming it is a recessive mutation will be split. Why do you think I am going nuts trying to figure out yellows? Because there are more than 1 type, and the pictorial genetic sites are the best way of figuring it out, cause you can see what SF and DF cocks look like.
LML
LML
- finchbreeder
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but all normals bred to a split..all young will be split......
No, no, no.
All normals bred to a mutation assuming it is a recessive mutation will be split. Why do you think I am going nuts trying to figure out yellows? Because there are more than 1 type, and the pictorial genetic sites are the best way of figuring it out, cause you can see what SF and DF cocks look like.
LML
No, no, no.
All normals bred to a mutation assuming it is a recessive mutation will be split. Why do you think I am going nuts trying to figure out yellows? Because there are more than 1 type, and the pictorial genetic sites are the best way of figuring it out, cause you can see what SF and DF cocks look like.
LML
LML
- Ripley
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Good point...
As I have said..I have become completely befuddled with all the mutations in gouldians...so I apologise for my ignornace..
Single/Double facor it's all becomming far too complicated.
Is there anyone out there who can explain gouldian genetics simply?
Cheers
Ripley
As I have said..I have become completely befuddled with all the mutations in gouldians...so I apologise for my ignornace..
Single/Double facor it's all becomming far too complicated.
Is there anyone out there who can explain gouldian genetics simply?
Cheers
Ripley
- djb78
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Thanks everyone, so far I've only ever bred normals so this is a new endeavour which is one I'm going to tread carefully as I don't wish to produce young that aren't healthy, most times I don't comment much on mutations as this is an area of breeding in which I don't know anything about, but since receiving some birds for nothing I will have a tackle now. I will not be breeding any splits or mutations with my current line of normal gouldians as this has taken me a while to source out pure normals so this isn't going to be a problem selling them. Any young which are produced from the splits will be told to the new owners that they are split or possible split.
As the young birds are still finishing their moult I hate noticed that all the yellow back splits have a very light colour Green like a light shade of olive and some seem to have a bit of white under their beak. Are these signs f a Aussie yellow split, will try and g photos if they stand still long enough.
As the young birds are still finishing their moult I hate noticed that all the yellow back splits have a very light colour Green like a light shade of olive and some seem to have a bit of white under their beak. Are these signs f a Aussie yellow split, will try and g photos if they stand still long enough.
Danny
- Finchy
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Yes! Here: http://www.finchstuff.com/GouldianFinch ... tions.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;Ripley wrote: Single/Double facor it's all becomming far too complicated.
Is there anyone out there who can explain gouldian genetics simply?
Cheers
Ripley
2 x split Aus Yellow = 50% split Aus Yellow + 25% Aus Yellow + 25% Normal (pure)
1 x split Aus Yellow + 1 x split Blue = All will appear Normal but are actually: 25% split Aus Yellow + 25% split Blue + 25% split both for Blue and Aus Yellow + 25% Normal (pure)
(I'm not sure if it's possible to carry a Blue gene and carry an Aus Yellow gene at the same time, but I suspect it is.)
Last edited by Finchy on 16 Dec 2011, 09:20, edited 4 times in total.
- Simba
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The cocks sound like SF Euro Yellows but if you can post some pictures we can have a look.djb78 wrote: As the young birds are still finishing their moult I hate noticed that all the yellow back splits have a very light colour Green like a light shade of olive and some seem to have a bit of white under their beak. Are these signs f a Aussie yellow split, will try and g photos if they stand still long enough.
Breeder of Gouldian Finches