Blue Capped Waxbill

Includes Species Profile
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Jayburd
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Posts: 5795
Joined: 08 Dec 2009, 12:08
Location: Canberra

Latin Name:
Uraeginthus Cyanocephela

Other Names:
Blue Capped Cordon, Blue Capped Waxbill, Blue Headed finch or Blue Cap

Mutations:
None known (thank god!)

Description:
Adult – Male, bright electric blue head, nape, throat, chest and sides. Back and wings darker brown, underbelly from below the chest to the vent is pale fawn colour. Tail dark blue. Beak dark pink. The legs are flesh coloured.
- Hen, blue much less vibrant, back of the head & top of the head same darker brown as the back, blue forehead. As in male, underside form chest-vent is light fawn. Beak is slightly lighter pink, and the tail is lighter blue. Legs are the same as male.
Juveniles – distinctive “baby bird” look, very pale blue chest and face, more extensive on a male baby. Back is lighter brown than adults; entire underside is light brown, no blue sides as yet. Rump and tail light blue.

Sexing:
All cordon species are easy to sex, being sexually dimorphic (male and female appear different). See above adult descriptions.

Basic Breeding Info:
Average Clutch Size: 4 to 6 eggs
Incubation Period: around 14 days
Leave nest: around 18-20 days

Housing:
Blue caps can be kept in mixed collections, but are best housed as 1 pair per aviary. They are not ideal cage birds, as their colours are shown off by far the best in a large plated outdoor aviary. However, they can be bred in cages very occasionally, and indoor flights are acceptable. These birds must NEVER be housed with any of the other Uraeginthus species, as hybrids will occur. These species are:
• Red Cheeked Cordon Bleu (Uraeginthus Bengalus)
• Blue- Breasted Cordon Bleu (Uraeginthus Angolensis)
• Violet Eared Waxbill (Uraeginthus Granatina)
• Purple Grenadier Waxbill (Uraeginthus ianthinogaster)
Blue cap males may become aggressive to other blue finches in the aviary towards breeding season, but like so many animals this depends completely on the nature of your bird. Also more aggressive blue softbill species must be avoided, birds like
• Superb Fairy Wren (Malurus Cyaneus)
• Splendid Fairy Wren (Malurus splendens)

Breeding:
Blue caps need quite a lot of live food to breed successfully. Hens are notorious for tossing chicks out after hatching, or, very frustratingly, just before fledging. Without wanting to start a massive debate, it is possible for blue caps to be fostered under other birds.

Nests are usually located in living plants, or brush hung on the aviary walls in the aviary, and occasionally in a nest box/basket. The nest is usually a ball shaped structure made of grass, and lined with soft pale feathers. There is no entrance spout/tunnel.

Eggbinding in blue caps is very common, and a heat box (hospital cage) should be ready for action in cold weather.

Blue caps are generally not tolerant of nest inspection of any kind, and no matter how much temptation there is, KEEP FINGERS OUT!!!!
Parent birds visiting the live food dish at intervals throughout the day is often a sign of success. Pairs should be restricted to 3 nests a year, so as not to tire these bird out.

Feeding:
Blue caps should be presented with a good quality finch seed mix, and this can be supplemented with as many different seeds as you like, like green panic seeds, Niger, and other finch mixes like the “QFS Tonic seed Mix”, a blend of various seeds not generally found in the everyday finch mix.
Throughout the year, seasonal greens such as lettuce, spinach, and other broad-leaf greens, and various weeds like dandelion and sprouted bird seeds should be offered.
Soft-foods will sometimes be taken.
Live food is very important for breeding, as mentioned. Termites are a particular favourite, and birds reared on termites will often not breed without them. However, some may be weaned onto maggots. Mealworms are not recommended in large doses, as the mealworm’s shell is made of Chitin (the same substance Hair, fingernails and feathers are made of), which is hard for young birds to digest. Frozen termites are a great live-food source for those who don’t want to sore live termites, or for those who don’t have the time to go collecting often. Termites can remain frozen for 2-3 months before shriveling up.

Approximate cost per pair in Australia:

Queensland:
$250-$300

New South Wales:
$300

Victoria:
$300

Tasmania:
$300

South Australia:
$300

Western Australia:
$300
BCCB cock.jpg
BCCB hen.jpg
Pictures provided by Monotwine.
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Julian

Birdwatcher and finch-keeper.

Feel free to check out my photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/lewinsrail/
And my birding antics here: http://worthtwointhebushbirding.blogspot.com.au/
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