This little one fledged two weeks ago and will be ready to be separated from parents (who seem to be down again) around Christmas Eve / Boxing Day. Naturally s/he is uncoloured and will stay that way for another 4-6 months. However an explosion of other birds means we have nowhere convenient to house it away from Mum & Dad.
If you have existing young or multiple pairs already this would be a good way to add to the number you have for unrelated pairs come sale time. I realise that an uncoloured wren is as big a gamble as an uncoloured Gouldian so I'm prepared to listen to whoever wants it as to what they think it's worth. Normal price is around $150-200pair.
S/he has been raised by very tolerant and easy going parents who have lived in with Chats and have raised this one with a pair of painteds who have rasied young simultaneously.
Happy to freight at your expense.
PM me.
Superb Wren (Vic)
- Tintola
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Do you know that you can leave it in with the parents until late winter next year? Just make sure the mother or young one, or bothy, has a ring on to identify them. It will help raise subsequent broods.
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Tint, everything I have read suggests that I pull him out as soon as he is independent. I'd be more than happy to keep him in there (I have rung his mother so I can always tell her). Catch is we are going away for a few days and I won't be there to watch for trouble. Hutton says the only safe clutch to leave in with the parents is the last one.
What's your experience? Aviary is 1.2 x 2.8m.
What's your experience? Aviary is 1.2 x 2.8m.
- maz
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That was my understanding of their wild behaviour but don't know anything about their behaviour in captivity. In the wild they have better success with further broods due to the increased number of individuals caring for them and the young one's that have gained the experience through helping then have better success when they go off on their own.Tintola wrote:Do you know that you can leave it in with the parents until late winter next year? Just make sure the mother or young one, or bothy, has a ring on to identify them. It will help raise subsequent broods.
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It's the behaviour in captivity which is the issue here. I know full well about past broods hanging around but that presumes adequate personal space and access to food (liberty of movement / unimpaired access as opposed to food quantity).maz wrote:That was my understanding of their wild behaviour but don't know anything about their behaviour in captivity. In the wild they have better success with further broods due to the increased number of individuals caring for them and the young one's that have gained the experience through helping then have better success when they go off on their own.Tintola wrote:Do you know that you can leave it in with the parents until late winter next year? Just make sure the mother or young one, or bothy, has a ring on to identify them. It will help raise subsequent broods.
- Tintola
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I've kept and bred 5 different species of fairy wrens over the last 15 years. My experience, without exception so far is that I can leave all young in with the parents until about July the following year which is when the parents start to get very territorial and evict or kill the previous years young and maybe keep one or two (usually males) to help with the next season. Having said that one pair of Superbs kept two daughters and turned on all the young males. My guess is that they would not try to evict one young until next July-ish. It is very rewarding to watch the family group interact with each other. Last year I had Red-backed wrens fledge 3, had another 3 then another two so by the end of the season there were ten in the family. All young were removed in mid winter. If disaster strikes it won't just happen suddenly, you will notice some aggression and chasing around, usually by the male, then it's time to move somebody.
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- Netsurfer
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Can't say about the Superbs but the White-wings are the same, never had any problems. (I hope I'm not going off topic but just curious)Tintola wrote:I've kept and bred 5 different species of fairy wrens over the last 15 years. My experience, without exception so far is that I can leave all young in with the parents until about July the following year which is when the parents start to get very territorial and evict or kill the previous years young and maybe keep one or two (usually males) to help with the next season. Having said that one pair of Superbs kept two daughters and turned on all the young males. My guess is that they would not try to evict one young until next July-ish. It is very rewarding to watch the family group interact with each other. Last year I had Red-backed wrens fledge 3, had another 3 then another two so by the end of the season there were ten in the family. All young were removed in mid winter. If disaster strikes it won't just happen suddenly, you will notice some aggression and chasing around, usually by the male, then it's time to move somebody.
How are you going with the Red-backed this year, any young yet? So far I had all young White-winged females, seven DNA sexed! I just found out how to sex them, there's no need for the DNA sexing. Can anyone else tell the sexes?
- Tintola
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The Red-backs one nest where the chicks just disappeared at about five days, second nest are about four days old at the moment. Last year six out of six dna-ed were hens. How do you sex the White-winged without dna sexing? Beak colour or lores around the eyes? Or ???
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- E Orix
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Tintola
When you ring your Wrens do you put the ring on in the normal part of the leg, foot to 1st joint or higher up 1st joint to thigh.
The later is where I would normally ring Wrens as they have less chance of getting snagged as they scramble about in the under growth.
When you ring your Wrens do you put the ring on in the normal part of the leg, foot to 1st joint or higher up 1st joint to thigh.
The later is where I would normally ring Wrens as they have less chance of getting snagged as they scramble about in the under growth.